As a side note, the kids discovered the true humor of farting on this trip. They learned how to do it on command, and for such small children, they smell AWFUL.
Oh, and they love to do it in public, like right now, in the crowded airport.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Never Never Land
After our italian restaurant, we entered the mall to find the Museum for kids. We got more than we bargained for. We couldn't lure the kids to the museum because there was an indoor amusement park/arcade adjacent to it. Think of a kids Las Vegas. It was crazy, roller coasters and other rides. Finally got them to the Museum. Hands down the best Children's Museum we've ever been to.
Great last day.
We topped off our last night and bowed to the tourists in us and went to a Tango show. It was a small, intimate setting of about 75 people and exceeded all expectations. I had to drag Rob out of the apartment to go, and by the end he was hootin' and hollerin'.
In the airport in Santiago now, waiting for our connection.
Don't cry for me, Argentina....but we may start crying as we say good-bye. Hasta La Vista, Baby. Oh, and yes, the Argentine's know that the Terminator is our Governer. All the taxi drivers quoted that line to us.
Great last day.
We topped off our last night and bowed to the tourists in us and went to a Tango show. It was a small, intimate setting of about 75 people and exceeded all expectations. I had to drag Rob out of the apartment to go, and by the end he was hootin' and hollerin'.
In the airport in Santiago now, waiting for our connection.
Don't cry for me, Argentina....but we may start crying as we say good-bye. Hasta La Vista, Baby. Oh, and yes, the Argentine's know that the Terminator is our Governer. All the taxi drivers quoted that line to us.
The empty passport
We tried to go to Uruguay today. It's a quick, 1 hour ferry ride, or so we're told. Kai couldn't wait because it meant another 2 stamps in his passport. We heard the beaches were incredible there.
Alas, it turns out people in Argentina celebrate Easter, too. Of course, they take 1-2 additional days off as they do for any cause for celebration here. Apparently, on vacation, everyone in BA goes to Uruguay. Not a single ticket was available on any ferry to Uruguay for the next four days.
Instead, we had another great day in BA. Went to a highly recommended Italian restaurant for lunch, because of it's proximity to the Children's museum. We were told to get whatever the specials were. Not understanding spanish well, we think we're getting fried calamari and mushroom ravioli.
Halfway through, we realize we have tender squid stuffed with "fruit of the sea". It was delicious and rich. It was washed down with a malbec and followed by our yummy looking raviolis.
yyyyyyeeeeaaaahhhh. 2 bites into the ravioli and a quick gag, we realize it's blood sausage ravioli. It is as bad as it sounds. Definition to follow.
Definition: A link sausage made of pig's blood, diced pork fat, and other ingredients such as onions and breadcrumbs. Also called blood pudding.
Reorder!~
Alas, it turns out people in Argentina celebrate Easter, too. Of course, they take 1-2 additional days off as they do for any cause for celebration here. Apparently, on vacation, everyone in BA goes to Uruguay. Not a single ticket was available on any ferry to Uruguay for the next four days.
Instead, we had another great day in BA. Went to a highly recommended Italian restaurant for lunch, because of it's proximity to the Children's museum. We were told to get whatever the specials were. Not understanding spanish well, we think we're getting fried calamari and mushroom ravioli.
Halfway through, we realize we have tender squid stuffed with "fruit of the sea". It was delicious and rich. It was washed down with a malbec and followed by our yummy looking raviolis.
yyyyyyeeeeaaaahhhh. 2 bites into the ravioli and a quick gag, we realize it's blood sausage ravioli. It is as bad as it sounds. Definition to follow.
Definition: A link sausage made of pig's blood, diced pork fat, and other ingredients such as onions and breadcrumbs. Also called blood pudding.
Reorder!~
Back in BA again....
Short n sweet now......went to Puerto Madera, an area by the river were you can catch a boat to Uruguay or jump on y0ur yacht and take a cruz in the river. Anyway......we really came down to this area to find the Churasco's, basically the equivalent of a roberto's on wheels, only w/ a bbq or Parilla cooking pork, sausage, and beef. We samples several and decided that the "pork sandwich" was the best, (forgot what the espanol name of it was) truely amazing though, all for $2. After gorging ourselves, we wobbled on over to the marina area and toured a turn of the century Naval training ship which circumnavigated the globe 36 times. Very impressive, however would be very unpleasant in high seas........for dinner that night I went to the market and purchased 2 chicken breats and 2 beautiful fillets. We cooked the chicken for the kids and it was amazing. Later in the evening I brought out he fillets, only to be suprised that they spread like a deck of cards.......oops! Didn't read the label very well, I purchased "spread like a deck of cards fillet" or Millonesa cut.......no stopping Big Papa though......sauted some ajo (garlic for you gringos) in olive oil and flashed the beautiful little "cards" and washed them down w/ a beautiful Blend from Alta Vista, Mendoza. Highly recommend this wine if you can find it.
Cioa!
PS - Big Papa's waist is expanding to the point of no return.
Cioa!
PS - Big Papa's waist is expanding to the point of no return.
Iguazu Fall - or Throat of the Devil
After debating for ages, we finally decided to go to Iguazu. Ironically, we've dragged our raincoats throughout this entire country, but decided to leave them in BA for our trip to the tropics.
It was a torrential downpour when we arrived.
Our other strategic mistake was timing. Our flight was at 9am. We haven't woken up before 9am our entire trip. By the time we reached the hotel, all of us were exhausted. We stayed at the only hotel inside the National Park and could see the falls in the distance from the hotel. Even with that motivation, the kids begged to sleep.
All walks to the falls were listed as 1-2 hours (and our kids cry if they walk more than 4 blocks). We wondered if we would ever make it. I was staring longingly at the postcards of Iguazu in the lobby.
Luckily, the magic of sugar and promises of ice cream remained key motivations and got us through the first walk. Thank god an hour to an Argentinian map maker is really only a 20 minute walk to a gordo american family.
The falls were stunning. So worth the effort and the trip. The sun even came out for us on the walk.
We were only in Iguazu for 24 hours, so the next morning, we headed out for the "Garganta del Diablo, The Throat of the Devil. I'm not sure the pictures will do it justice, but here they are.
After that, the kids were pooped. The three of us headed to the pool to relax for the last hour before our flight, while Rob sprinted down the lower falls, anxious to catch a boat ride. He arrived, as first in line of a 20 minute wait for a 12 minute boat ride that took him directly under the falls. He then took off the flip flops and sprinted barefoot back to the Sheraton to make our flight. You know how Rob likes to arrive early for the flights. He was "sweating" this one.
The falls were a highlight for Rob and I. The highlights for the kids were:
Mia: the crocodile we saw in the river. It was dead and we watched them pull it out. The butterfly that landed on my hand and gave me special power, the ice cream after the train.
Kai: the train, the swimming pool, and the key to the room. Mom and Dad let me go up to the room by myself.
Mission accomplished. Oh, and we caught our flight with time to spare.
It was a torrential downpour when we arrived.
Our other strategic mistake was timing. Our flight was at 9am. We haven't woken up before 9am our entire trip. By the time we reached the hotel, all of us were exhausted. We stayed at the only hotel inside the National Park and could see the falls in the distance from the hotel. Even with that motivation, the kids begged to sleep.
All walks to the falls were listed as 1-2 hours (and our kids cry if they walk more than 4 blocks). We wondered if we would ever make it. I was staring longingly at the postcards of Iguazu in the lobby.
Luckily, the magic of sugar and promises of ice cream remained key motivations and got us through the first walk. Thank god an hour to an Argentinian map maker is really only a 20 minute walk to a gordo american family.
The falls were stunning. So worth the effort and the trip. The sun even came out for us on the walk.
We were only in Iguazu for 24 hours, so the next morning, we headed out for the "Garganta del Diablo, The Throat of the Devil. I'm not sure the pictures will do it justice, but here they are.
After that, the kids were pooped. The three of us headed to the pool to relax for the last hour before our flight, while Rob sprinted down the lower falls, anxious to catch a boat ride. He arrived, as first in line of a 20 minute wait for a 12 minute boat ride that took him directly under the falls. He then took off the flip flops and sprinted barefoot back to the Sheraton to make our flight. You know how Rob likes to arrive early for the flights. He was "sweating" this one.
The falls were a highlight for Rob and I. The highlights for the kids were:
Mia: the crocodile we saw in the river. It was dead and we watched them pull it out. The butterfly that landed on my hand and gave me special power, the ice cream after the train.
Kai: the train, the swimming pool, and the key to the room. Mom and Dad let me go up to the room by myself.
Mission accomplished. Oh, and we caught our flight with time to spare.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Aquarium in Mendoza
Our last stop in Mendoza was the Aquarium.
Hmmm, we saw everything in 15 minutes. It was a crumbling building in a forgotten part of town. The twenty some odd fish tanks housed typical fish, as well as some compelling (to Rob) Amazonian species.
The kids loved the dried out piranhas and the formaldehyde (spelling?) bullfrog the size of a salad plate.
Then off for more salami sandwichs before catching the flight to Buenos Aires.
Hmmm, we saw everything in 15 minutes. It was a crumbling building in a forgotten part of town. The twenty some odd fish tanks housed typical fish, as well as some compelling (to Rob) Amazonian species.
The kids loved the dried out piranhas and the formaldehyde (spelling?) bullfrog the size of a salad plate.
Then off for more salami sandwichs before catching the flight to Buenos Aires.
Kai Says "hi"
Hi Gigi, Tate, Sierra and Nicole,
I am just about to go the biggest waterfall in the world, Iguazu Falls. It is on the border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. I'm going to see you soon.
I am four hours ahead of you. Everyone speaks spanish here. We have to walk a lot in Buenos Aires. We take the subway and taxis too. I love the subway. My favorite place is Villa La Angostura. It is near Bariloche. I like it because there's a lake by us.
I fed the pigeons today.
I have to take 9 planes on my trip. On every LAN plane, guess what! There's a TV on them.
Love,
Kai
PS. I was in Chile, too.
I am just about to go the biggest waterfall in the world, Iguazu Falls. It is on the border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. I'm going to see you soon.
I am four hours ahead of you. Everyone speaks spanish here. We have to walk a lot in Buenos Aires. We take the subway and taxis too. I love the subway. My favorite place is Villa La Angostura. It is near Bariloche. I like it because there's a lake by us.
I fed the pigeons today.
I have to take 9 planes on my trip. On every LAN plane, guess what! There's a TV on them.
Love,
Kai
PS. I was in Chile, too.
Last Day in Mendoza
(Rob) We spent our last dayand a half in Mendoza just wandering.
We ended up going the the park since it was a holiday (suprise! There's been on average a holiday a week here) and nothing was open. There are parks all over the city , however this one was huge, like balboa park but bigger. We found the "kids area" which was fantastic. A huge play ground w/ some of the most unsafe equiptment I have ever seen. There was also a ghetto, ancient merry-go-round and a circular road for the kids to ride bikes around on and they rented what we will call.......go carts......as well. These weren't your standard go carts like you raced in when you were a kid at the family fun center. They were more like electric pieces of s*&t. As you can see in the pictures, there was possible the original Model A from the turn of the century. The attendant starts the cars for the kids by twisting two wires together and gives the cars a little push w/ her foot. No safety equiptment is provided, which would be especially nice for the minature scooters they rent to the kids. However..........everyone survived the experience and the kids had a great time.
We ended up going the the park since it was a holiday (suprise! There's been on average a holiday a week here) and nothing was open. There are parks all over the city , however this one was huge, like balboa park but bigger. We found the "kids area" which was fantastic. A huge play ground w/ some of the most unsafe equiptment I have ever seen. There was also a ghetto, ancient merry-go-round and a circular road for the kids to ride bikes around on and they rented what we will call.......go carts......as well. These weren't your standard go carts like you raced in when you were a kid at the family fun center. They were more like electric pieces of s*&t. As you can see in the pictures, there was possible the original Model A from the turn of the century. The attendant starts the cars for the kids by twisting two wires together and gives the cars a little push w/ her foot. No safety equiptment is provided, which would be especially nice for the minature scooters they rent to the kids. However..........everyone survived the experience and the kids had a great time.
Rich
Had a dulce de leche creme brulee for dessert.
It's an 8-10 lb trip and loving every bite/sip of it.
It's an 8-10 lb trip and loving every bite/sip of it.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Mendoza Continued
After a full day of wine tasting, we decided to give the kids a break the next day.
So instead, our tango instructor showed up at 10am to give the four of us a lesson in the courtyard of the lodge. The instructor was as sexy as the dance itself. At least, I think Rob thought so until she demonstrated a signature tango move, where they are intimately close, and she gives him a swift kick through the legs, with her high heeled shoe bouncing against his bum. Apparently, she caught more than his bum.
We had a ball (no pun intended) and in the end, Kai was the best of all of us.
After a leisurely lunch, we walked through the town square and made our way to another winery. Clos de Chacras. A small, boutique winery, that in the 1940's was one of the mass producers. We got to venture into the cellars which were reminiscent of an Edgar Allen Poe novel. Creepy, but fascinating.
That evening, the chef at the lodge, Pablo, gave us a cooking lesson. He cooked everything in this great, outdoor pizza oven looking deal. We made homemade empanadas, among other dishes. Now, Rob is trying to figure out how to add a classic Parrilla bbq, and this pizza oven.
So instead, our tango instructor showed up at 10am to give the four of us a lesson in the courtyard of the lodge. The instructor was as sexy as the dance itself. At least, I think Rob thought so until she demonstrated a signature tango move, where they are intimately close, and she gives him a swift kick through the legs, with her high heeled shoe bouncing against his bum. Apparently, she caught more than his bum.
We had a ball (no pun intended) and in the end, Kai was the best of all of us.
After a leisurely lunch, we walked through the town square and made our way to another winery. Clos de Chacras. A small, boutique winery, that in the 1940's was one of the mass producers. We got to venture into the cellars which were reminiscent of an Edgar Allen Poe novel. Creepy, but fascinating.
That evening, the chef at the lodge, Pablo, gave us a cooking lesson. He cooked everything in this great, outdoor pizza oven looking deal. We made homemade empanadas, among other dishes. Now, Rob is trying to figure out how to add a classic Parrilla bbq, and this pizza oven.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Wine Tasting
(Rob) We arrive at our new hotel, and it really isn't a hotel, but someone's house. We had our own small bungalow right in front of a huge grassy area w/a pool....the kids couldn't have been more excited. The first night we went next door for dinner to a fantastic Italian dinner, where we had some of the best pasta ever, see photo's! The kids loved the pasta too, but they loved the big grass area in the back even more. They went nuts.
The next day, we were off to the vineyards w/ the kids and all of their crayons, color books, and Ipods! The first winery, Acheval Ferrer, was set amongst 80 acres of vines with dramatic views of the snow capped Andes. The winery was very old, and as w/ all the winery's we visited, they used the orginal concrete vats to store the wines, some dating back 95 years. The wines were incredible and the staff extremely informative.
Off to the next winery..........Melipal, which turned out to be one of the finest, if not the finest culinary experience we have ever had. The architecture was incredible, being contemporary and incorporating lots of different woods. The wines were very nice however the lunch was incredible. Lucky us, the executive chef was at the winery and prepared our meal. Ended up he is one of Mendoza's and the countrys most highly regarded chef's....and his food n presentation didn't disappoint. Our 6 course meal was perfectly paired w/ various wines. The chef came out several times to discuss the variuos dishes and ingrediants. Not to be disappointed, the chef made the kids a special chicken w/ fresh cut french fries, after which they went out to the lake and played w/ the tadpoles and frogs.
And off to the final winery......wow do we have any more room for anything? Well maybe a wine tasting. The final tasting was at Carmelo Patti, whom is regarded as one of Argentina's most famous wine makers and who's Cabernet was voted #1 in France in 2002. Carmelo is a one man show, and is a real character who conducts the tour, in his office w/ a fold out table, himself. He blends the wines, fills the bottles, corks and puts on the labels w/ the help of only 2 other people. His wines had much more of a french taste and were incredible. His production is limited to 40,000 bottles and he doesn't release any of it until he personally inspects every bottle. A true artist.
We are now going back to the hotel to pass out.
Adios
The next day, we were off to the vineyards w/ the kids and all of their crayons, color books, and Ipods! The first winery, Acheval Ferrer, was set amongst 80 acres of vines with dramatic views of the snow capped Andes. The winery was very old, and as w/ all the winery's we visited, they used the orginal concrete vats to store the wines, some dating back 95 years. The wines were incredible and the staff extremely informative.
Off to the next winery..........Melipal, which turned out to be one of the finest, if not the finest culinary experience we have ever had. The architecture was incredible, being contemporary and incorporating lots of different woods. The wines were very nice however the lunch was incredible. Lucky us, the executive chef was at the winery and prepared our meal. Ended up he is one of Mendoza's and the countrys most highly regarded chef's....and his food n presentation didn't disappoint. Our 6 course meal was perfectly paired w/ various wines. The chef came out several times to discuss the variuos dishes and ingrediants. Not to be disappointed, the chef made the kids a special chicken w/ fresh cut french fries, after which they went out to the lake and played w/ the tadpoles and frogs.
And off to the final winery......wow do we have any more room for anything? Well maybe a wine tasting. The final tasting was at Carmelo Patti, whom is regarded as one of Argentina's most famous wine makers and who's Cabernet was voted #1 in France in 2002. Carmelo is a one man show, and is a real character who conducts the tour, in his office w/ a fold out table, himself. He blends the wines, fills the bottles, corks and puts on the labels w/ the help of only 2 other people. His wines had much more of a french taste and were incredible. His production is limited to 40,000 bottles and he doesn't release any of it until he personally inspects every bottle. A true artist.
We are now going back to the hotel to pass out.
Adios
Bienvenidos a Mendoza!
The kids and I arrived in Mendoza City Saturday evening. Rob had beat us there and was waiting for us at our first wine tasting, Vines of Mendoza (thanks, Will and Jojo for the recommendation). It was only a block from our hotel, but we were 20 min late, so we dropped our bags and sped off. The kids kept asking me "Why are we running?"
We arrived and Rob had just been poured his first flight. After a joyous reunion, we were offered a private room for the tasting. I'm sure it was because we looked like we had money, not because the kids were sprinting in circles around a very nice, exclusive tasting room. It was a blessing. We had all sorts of wines. Apparently in Argentina, a 'pour' is a full glass.
I think we tasted 10 wines.
(Rob) Then we danced off to the Don Marios, a restaurant renowned for it's amazing steaks. We weren't disappointed! Upon entering the restaurant, custumers plates were overflowing w/ slabs of beef. I believe this is were Will n Jo came w/ their host Michael. We ended up splitting a steak and washing it down w/ a fantastic Malbel from Isais. Like every restaurant we have been to, the staff was very accomadating towards the kids.....making special dishes for them and putting chairs together so they could fall asleep, something American restaruants need to take note of. The staff was all older gentleman who must have been doing this for many years, a true classic experience.
Tomorrow we are off to the next hotel in the countryside......
Adios
We arrived and Rob had just been poured his first flight. After a joyous reunion, we were offered a private room for the tasting. I'm sure it was because we looked like we had money, not because the kids were sprinting in circles around a very nice, exclusive tasting room. It was a blessing. We had all sorts of wines. Apparently in Argentina, a 'pour' is a full glass.
I think we tasted 10 wines.
(Rob) Then we danced off to the Don Marios, a restaurant renowned for it's amazing steaks. We weren't disappointed! Upon entering the restaurant, custumers plates were overflowing w/ slabs of beef. I believe this is were Will n Jo came w/ their host Michael. We ended up splitting a steak and washing it down w/ a fantastic Malbel from Isais. Like every restaurant we have been to, the staff was very accomadating towards the kids.....making special dishes for them and putting chairs together so they could fall asleep, something American restaruants need to take note of. The staff was all older gentleman who must have been doing this for many years, a true classic experience.
Tomorrow we are off to the next hotel in the countryside......
Adios
Monday, March 30, 2009
Travels and travails part two
With irate men staring on, and children sleeping blissfully, I had to wait until the bus "conductor" came back on board to tell me where we could go. He led me to the back of the bus, next to the toilet, but luckily, with three seats in a row.
At least for the next two stops. After Kai gets kicked out of his seat by an older, very heavy set man with few teeth, we spend the rest of the bus ride in two seats, next to the toilet, sweating, and hoping no one else comes to collect another seat.
No one did. Whew.
Luckily the rest of that day went smoothly.
In contrast, while the kids and I were traveling to Temuco, Rob was driving through a rain storm back to Bariloche. He stopped in Villa La Angostura, got a hotel, had the best lamb bbq of his life, got drunk with the chef and made it to Mendoza uneventfully the next day.
At least for the next two stops. After Kai gets kicked out of his seat by an older, very heavy set man with few teeth, we spend the rest of the bus ride in two seats, next to the toilet, sweating, and hoping no one else comes to collect another seat.
No one did. Whew.
Luckily the rest of that day went smoothly.
In contrast, while the kids and I were traveling to Temuco, Rob was driving through a rain storm back to Bariloche. He stopped in Villa La Angostura, got a hotel, had the best lamb bbq of his life, got drunk with the chef and made it to Mendoza uneventfully the next day.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
travels and travails to mendoza
We made it safely to Mendoza, though we finally had our first travel challenge. we loved Bariloche and our rental car so much, we decided to travel through chile by car, rather than by bus and return to Bariloche, then fly from there.
Unfortunately, in the day and a half between when we made the decision, drove to Chile and found our next internet connection to book the flights, they were sold out. Crisis. Hotel reservations and wine tours would go to waste!
We decided to split up. kids and i took a bus to Temuco to catch our original flights from Temuco while Rob drove back to Bariloche to catch the only seat on a flight from there. We would reunite in Mendoza at a wine tasting. It sounds romantic, right?
Kids and I hop on the bus in our reserved front seats. They are thrilled. Five minutes into the bus ride the ticket guy comes by (buses here are more like Amtrak. I thought it was a direct bus ride, no stops, to Temuco. Wrong! We stopped no less than 15 times on the way). Bus ticket guy looks at our tickets, once, twice, three times, then goes to the front of the bus to consult with the driver. UGh. not looking good. He then informs me that our tickets are for Sunday. Luckily, he says no problem. I sit back, relaxing, but waiting for the other shoe to drop.
It does. Within 15 minutes, both kids are asleep and I love bus travel. Five minutes later, we stop and a whole crowd piles on to the bus, including three irate older men, insistently wanting their seats (i don´t blame them).
to be continued....
Unfortunately, in the day and a half between when we made the decision, drove to Chile and found our next internet connection to book the flights, they were sold out. Crisis. Hotel reservations and wine tours would go to waste!
We decided to split up. kids and i took a bus to Temuco to catch our original flights from Temuco while Rob drove back to Bariloche to catch the only seat on a flight from there. We would reunite in Mendoza at a wine tasting. It sounds romantic, right?
Kids and I hop on the bus in our reserved front seats. They are thrilled. Five minutes into the bus ride the ticket guy comes by (buses here are more like Amtrak. I thought it was a direct bus ride, no stops, to Temuco. Wrong! We stopped no less than 15 times on the way). Bus ticket guy looks at our tickets, once, twice, three times, then goes to the front of the bus to consult with the driver. UGh. not looking good. He then informs me that our tickets are for Sunday. Luckily, he says no problem. I sit back, relaxing, but waiting for the other shoe to drop.
It does. Within 15 minutes, both kids are asleep and I love bus travel. Five minutes later, we stop and a whole crowd piles on to the bus, including three irate older men, insistently wanting their seats (i don´t blame them).
to be continued....
Friday, March 27, 2009
Pictures Random
Here are some shots from Angostura. The first is a mountain lake right next to the shortest river in the world - Rio Correntoso. It's the Lago (Frio) Correntoso behind us with great beaches and ski area in the distance. The next shot is one of the many rivers we stumbled on driving the lake district. No one around, we spent an afternoon here, looking for rocks, crawdads, fish and logs. The last picture is Rob and I on the boat trip out to the Arreyanes national park. It was a perfect day, the park is a forest - the only one like it in the world. There was one in Hiroshima, but that's obviously gone. It is supposedly the forest that inspired Walt Disney forest in Bambi.
Chile, land of beautiful cloud forests and german beers
Migrated from Agua Calientes to Valdivia today. Incredible scenery, very similar to Nor Cal except that the rolling hills were clear cut and replanted, you could see the tree lines that were planted w/ different varieties of timber. Once in Valdivia we checked out the fish market by the river. The kids were going nuts when the guys filleting the fish threw the guts over into the river and the sea lions fought over them. South American Sea lions are very different than ours, their heads are at least 2 feet wide, amazing creatures. We ended up finding a small cabin in a suberb, w/ a big play ground for the kids and a few german campers who had kids the same age. We also came across a great german brewery, labelled "Kunstmann". Say it quickly. Please. Or maybe it's only funny after the "pequeno" beers they serve in large, large glasses. some fantastic brews and sausages. Even better was the playground, within sight, but out of hearing range. Unfortunately we are only here for a few days, Chile is another trip~! We are off to Mendoza and will report back in a few days.
Ciao or Chow as in what we have been doing the last two weeks.
Ciao or Chow as in what we have been doing the last two weeks.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Rob Goes Fly Fishing and Eats more than He Catches
Incredible scenery, huge mountains, beautiful lakes and huge trout.....just not on the end of my rod. The local fishery boasts one of the most productive trout fisherys in the world. Huge Brown, rainbow, and brook trout inhabit the local streams and lakes. Unfortunatley the conditions were against us, drought conditions resulting in low water levels in the rivers, lake temps were up making the fish sluggish, and brillant water clarity so they could spot you a mile away. Regardless, I had an incredible time, landing on nice brook and improving my flyfishing skills, using streamers. Patagonia is windy, and the afternoon brought 15+ knot winds. I quickly realized that you need to alter your approach in these conditions when the wind caught my fly in implanted in into my cheek. Enclosed is a picture of huge brook that my guide caught. Also included are pictures of teh asada that he cooked for us at an abandoned rangers station. Smoked cheese and deer, w/ several different types of salami, followed up by huge bone in ribeyes and sausages......washed down by a beautiful cabernet, then back to fishing. I highly recommend this area for any of you flyfisherman.
Farewell Villa La Angostura, and we've just learned how to pronounce you
Sitting in a cafe (again). It's a bit surreal as Sublime is playing in the background and the kids are playing Battleship. You would think we were in the US, until the perfect cappucino arrives, in three different colors, with perfect foam, chocolate shavings and some crazy dulce de lece whipping cream.
Mia is asking for ice cream. Apparently, it's a cultural thing to eat ice cream every day. It seems to be the way they wash down the midday meal. Mia thinks she was Argentinian in her last life and has adapted to the ice cream every day quite nicely.
Kids are practically fluent as they say por favor and gracias without a hesitation. Of course, they don't know any other words, except helado (ice cream). There is less english spoken than I anticipated, so Rob and I are pretty comical cobbling together spanish sentences. Rob has finally realized that people don't address each other as "amigo" like they do at taco shops in San Diego.
After five days in Villa La Angostura, we finally learned that they pronounce Villa like Vi-sha. No wonder everyone looked at us funny when we told them where were staying.
We met our home exchange hosts yesterday. They have two cabins on their property and arrived yesterday and treated us to an amazing and authentic asada. Otherwise known as a fancy all day bbq meat feast. They are truly the nicest people in the world. We spent several hours getting to know each other over various cuts of steak and saugage, Quilmes (the local beer) and bread. Dan (our host) showed Rob the techniques for the parrilla (Argentina style bbq) and Rob is already trying to figure out where he can put one in our backyard...
Mia is asking for ice cream. Apparently, it's a cultural thing to eat ice cream every day. It seems to be the way they wash down the midday meal. Mia thinks she was Argentinian in her last life and has adapted to the ice cream every day quite nicely.
Kids are practically fluent as they say por favor and gracias without a hesitation. Of course, they don't know any other words, except helado (ice cream). There is less english spoken than I anticipated, so Rob and I are pretty comical cobbling together spanish sentences. Rob has finally realized that people don't address each other as "amigo" like they do at taco shops in San Diego.
After five days in Villa La Angostura, we finally learned that they pronounce Villa like Vi-sha. No wonder everyone looked at us funny when we told them where were staying.
We met our home exchange hosts yesterday. They have two cabins on their property and arrived yesterday and treated us to an amazing and authentic asada. Otherwise known as a fancy all day bbq meat feast. They are truly the nicest people in the world. We spent several hours getting to know each other over various cuts of steak and saugage, Quilmes (the local beer) and bread. Dan (our host) showed Rob the techniques for the parrilla (Argentina style bbq) and Rob is already trying to figure out where he can put one in our backyard...
Monday, March 23, 2009
Bariloche
Hi All,
Here's our cabin, yard, and view in Villa La Angostura. It's heavenly. Love the home exchange. At a cafe with a large beer and hyper children right now so will have to send more later.
In short, we LOVE it here and don't want to leave. Everyone is muy tranquillo and it looks and feels a lot like Tahoe in early Sept. with perfect weather and no people.
Rob went flyfishing for a day and kids and I have explored the beaches.
Life is good.
Finally back on in Bariloche
Hi everyone,
We've had a fabulous time in Bariloche/Villa La Angostura. it's the northern tip of Patagonia and a lot like Tahoe in September. Perfect weather, glacial lakes and mountains and very few people.
Wireless access is tougher to come by, so sorry we haven't written in awhile.
We all immediately decompressed when we arrived at our cabin (god bless Home Exchanges). IT's heavenly. See the pictures.
Rob went fly fishing for a whole day, kids and I explored the beaches, we went to the ski area and rode a chairlift to the top.
Other than that, we've been muy tranquillo and bbq'd lots of $4 steaks. we've all been very happy here and it's difficult to leave.
In fact, I sit here in a cafe on the lake (10 steps from the water) with a very large, cold beer, while the kids and rob are braving the cold water.
Life is good.
We don't want to leave but head to Chile in two days.
We've had a fabulous time in Bariloche/Villa La Angostura. it's the northern tip of Patagonia and a lot like Tahoe in September. Perfect weather, glacial lakes and mountains and very few people.
Wireless access is tougher to come by, so sorry we haven't written in awhile.
We all immediately decompressed when we arrived at our cabin (god bless Home Exchanges). IT's heavenly. See the pictures.
Rob went fly fishing for a whole day, kids and I explored the beaches, we went to the ski area and rode a chairlift to the top.
Other than that, we've been muy tranquillo and bbq'd lots of $4 steaks. we've all been very happy here and it's difficult to leave.
In fact, I sit here in a cafe on the lake (10 steps from the water) with a very large, cold beer, while the kids and rob are braving the cold water.
Life is good.
We don't want to leave but head to Chile in two days.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Buenos Aires Day tres
Day Three was fantastic. It is also the 10th anniversary of when Rob and I met. Happy St. Patrick's Day.
Jen hired URC, Urban Running Club to lead her on a personalized 10k run through the city. Her guide listed the historical facts and points of interest in the city while she panted and sweat through the humidity. It was fantastic.
Family trip to the zoo: Much better than Recoleta cemetary for us. We should have known the children would be more interested in the live animals than dead people. However, note to self, one does not need to search the metropolis to find large zoo animals, as children were equally entertained by the flock of pigeons, ample capybaras (i.e. large Argentinian rat), ducks, mice, and stray cats that roam the zoo.
The zoo just celebrated it's 120th anniversary. We don't think they've updated the cages since then. You can feed the animals and get remarkably close to several. The liability in this country is a far cry from the US, but it made for a wonderfully intimate experience for us visiting. Not to mention, it was a relaxing atmosphere in the middle of a big, bustling city.
Lunch at Voulezvous. Excelente!
Jen hired URC, Urban Running Club to lead her on a personalized 10k run through the city. Her guide listed the historical facts and points of interest in the city while she panted and sweat through the humidity. It was fantastic.
Family trip to the zoo: Much better than Recoleta cemetary for us. We should have known the children would be more interested in the live animals than dead people. However, note to self, one does not need to search the metropolis to find large zoo animals, as children were equally entertained by the flock of pigeons, ample capybaras (i.e. large Argentinian rat), ducks, mice, and stray cats that roam the zoo.
The zoo just celebrated it's 120th anniversary. We don't think they've updated the cages since then. You can feed the animals and get remarkably close to several. The liability in this country is a far cry from the US, but it made for a wonderfully intimate experience for us visiting. Not to mention, it was a relaxing atmosphere in the middle of a big, bustling city.
Lunch at Voulezvous. Excelente!
Family B.A. Highlights
Summary of Buenos Aires
Kai: My highlights are the subway, (subte), riding in taxis instead of walking. Staples (yes, it is the one and same office supply chain store), the zoo, finding "Captain Underpants" in english in the bookstore, the bodee (aka the bum cleaner) and the playground inside the restaurants.
Mia: My highlights are putting my head out the window of the taxi like a dog while the driver yells at me in spanish, feeding all the animals at the zoo, the chocolate that mommy and daddy feed me when I'm too tired to walk, quiet time in the apartment with my pillow.
Rob: My highlights are steak 1, steak 2, steak 3, steak 4, fried cheese, $1.75 stella litres, feeding the hippo at the zoo. Malbec 1, 2, 3, and 4 with my wife and the bodee (again , the bum cleaner)
Jen: My highlights are playing "go fish" with my family at the restaurants, all the meals, the restaurant with the playground where Rob and I had a romantic dinner and pretended we didn't have children, my hour long run with my personal Argentine guide/triathlete/ironMAN.
Kai: My highlights are the subway, (subte), riding in taxis instead of walking. Staples (yes, it is the one and same office supply chain store), the zoo, finding "Captain Underpants" in english in the bookstore, the bodee (aka the bum cleaner) and the playground inside the restaurants.
Mia: My highlights are putting my head out the window of the taxi like a dog while the driver yells at me in spanish, feeding all the animals at the zoo, the chocolate that mommy and daddy feed me when I'm too tired to walk, quiet time in the apartment with my pillow.
Rob: My highlights are steak 1, steak 2, steak 3, steak 4, fried cheese, $1.75 stella litres, feeding the hippo at the zoo. Malbec 1, 2, 3, and 4 with my wife and the bodee (again , the bum cleaner)
Jen: My highlights are playing "go fish" with my family at the restaurants, all the meals, the restaurant with the playground where Rob and I had a romantic dinner and pretended we didn't have children, my hour long run with my personal Argentine guide/triathlete/ironMAN.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Buenos Aires, Day Dos
Today, we made it to the Recoleta cemetary. It was about an 8 block walk that took us a mere 3 hours to complete. We ran low on energy immediately and needed an m&m and yogurt fix. We finally made it to the outside wall of the cemetary on a sugar rush that promptly crashed before we reached the entrance.
Luckily, there were several restaurants that could accommodate us. We sat at a table on the sidewalk of a delightful restaurant, playing "go, fish" and eating empanadas. Well, all of us except Mia. After an hour of fun, followed by a 20 min temper tantrum, we ended up at McDonald's, three doors down (still right outside the cemetary wall). Mia was satiated with chicken-ish nuggets, fries and ice cream. Rob and Jen were ready to hit the bottle and throw in the towel without ever seeing the inside of the cemetary. Kai was disgusted altogether with the junk food that Mia was consuming.
Finally, we made it in the cemetary, after purchasing a map and making all sorts of donations to unknown charities.
It was a unique experience. A visit that was well worth the effort. Kai and I had lengthy discussions about death, heaven, and souls. He finally asked if we could not talk about it anymore.
Cats were all over the place, lounging on tombs. Mia loved the kitties, wanted to take one home. When she got tired, it was the only way we could keep her going. Rob would spot a "kitty" and Mia would take off after it.
Oh, and we saw Eva Peron's place of rest as well.
We're home now. The exhausted kids were rejuvenated the minute we returned to the apartment, while Rob and I collapsed on the couch with glazed eyes, trying to muster the energy to find a babysitting service. He's asleep while I write this and the kids are sprinting in circles.
Luckily, there were several restaurants that could accommodate us. We sat at a table on the sidewalk of a delightful restaurant, playing "go, fish" and eating empanadas. Well, all of us except Mia. After an hour of fun, followed by a 20 min temper tantrum, we ended up at McDonald's, three doors down (still right outside the cemetary wall). Mia was satiated with chicken-ish nuggets, fries and ice cream. Rob and Jen were ready to hit the bottle and throw in the towel without ever seeing the inside of the cemetary. Kai was disgusted altogether with the junk food that Mia was consuming.
Finally, we made it in the cemetary, after purchasing a map and making all sorts of donations to unknown charities.
It was a unique experience. A visit that was well worth the effort. Kai and I had lengthy discussions about death, heaven, and souls. He finally asked if we could not talk about it anymore.
Cats were all over the place, lounging on tombs. Mia loved the kitties, wanted to take one home. When she got tired, it was the only way we could keep her going. Rob would spot a "kitty" and Mia would take off after it.
Oh, and we saw Eva Peron's place of rest as well.
We're home now. The exhausted kids were rejuvenated the minute we returned to the apartment, while Rob and I collapsed on the couch with glazed eyes, trying to muster the energy to find a babysitting service. He's asleep while I write this and the kids are sprinting in circles.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
1st steak experience
Rob:
Our first dinner/steak experience here was amazing, which started at 10 pm , which down here is like going out for the "blue hair special at 5 pm).......I think I might bring the restaurants concept back home. As you walk into Payuca, you are greeted w/ the brillant aroma's of beef , chicken and sausage, which u see grilling on an open fire immediately to your left. Huge slabs of beef, up to 2 feet are sloooowwwllly cooking to perfection while small, stout little blood sausages slow drip juice and make beautiful crackling noise's. The hostess brings you upstairs to another seating area next to a play ground! Yes parents, an upscale restaurant w/ a playground, with an arcade w/ the likes of Ms. Pacman and Gallaga.....(rob stay out, it is for the children only), a huge seaworld like jumpy w/ thousands of plastic balls, arts, crafts, and finally a childsize phoosball table(I had visions of Alasdair hogging up the table, bumping kids and screaming victory chants at them while schooling the poor little things at fuseball). Jen and I had a nice quiet dinner while the kids went nuts. We started off the night w/ local beers and a beautiful mixed green salad. We opted to try two different cuts of meat, the flank steak and a large slab of beef tenderloin fillet. Both were incredible, with a hint of game but nothing like the free range beef we buy in the US. The fillet was extremely juicy and cooked to perfection. The Flank was a different cut then we are accustomed to back home. It was delicious, especially when dipped into the various salsa's and chimmichurri sauces. We also had papas fritas that were to die for.....Steak and french fries...what else do we need? Dinner was washed down w/a La Linda 07 Cab, very nice but a lot different than the Napa Cab's we are accustomed to. The kids had delicioius pumpkin/cheese ravioli's with a red sauce. Back home this meal would have been $150+++ , we snuck out for $80 - we weren't allowed to tip.....with left overs which I am enjoying for breakfast at 1 pm..........until our next meal........just remember, "It ain't easy....being Cheesey!"
Our first dinner/steak experience here was amazing, which started at 10 pm , which down here is like going out for the "blue hair special at 5 pm).......I think I might bring the restaurants concept back home. As you walk into Payuca, you are greeted w/ the brillant aroma's of beef , chicken and sausage, which u see grilling on an open fire immediately to your left. Huge slabs of beef, up to 2 feet are sloooowwwllly cooking to perfection while small, stout little blood sausages slow drip juice and make beautiful crackling noise's. The hostess brings you upstairs to another seating area next to a play ground! Yes parents, an upscale restaurant w/ a playground, with an arcade w/ the likes of Ms. Pacman and Gallaga.....(rob stay out, it is for the children only), a huge seaworld like jumpy w/ thousands of plastic balls, arts, crafts, and finally a childsize phoosball table(I had visions of Alasdair hogging up the table, bumping kids and screaming victory chants at them while schooling the poor little things at fuseball). Jen and I had a nice quiet dinner while the kids went nuts. We started off the night w/ local beers and a beautiful mixed green salad. We opted to try two different cuts of meat, the flank steak and a large slab of beef tenderloin fillet. Both were incredible, with a hint of game but nothing like the free range beef we buy in the US. The fillet was extremely juicy and cooked to perfection. The Flank was a different cut then we are accustomed to back home. It was delicious, especially when dipped into the various salsa's and chimmichurri sauces. We also had papas fritas that were to die for.....Steak and french fries...what else do we need? Dinner was washed down w/a La Linda 07 Cab, very nice but a lot different than the Napa Cab's we are accustomed to. The kids had delicioius pumpkin/cheese ravioli's with a red sauce. Back home this meal would have been $150+++ , we snuck out for $80 - we weren't allowed to tip.....with left overs which I am enjoying for breakfast at 1 pm..........until our next meal........just remember, "It ain't easy....being Cheesey!"
Buenos Aires, Day Uno
Jen: Our apartment is great. Bars, restaurants, subway and grocery stores all within a block distance. Kids were so happy they didn't want to leave the apartment. After a long afternoon nap, we made it out for dinner. As the excellent navigator that I am, we walked 10 blocks in the wrong direction, then had to catch a cab to our restaurant.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Getting Ready
We're reading up and home exchanging like mad. The names of destinations are foreign and I keep getting confused with locations. But we can't wait!
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